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Ottawa to Montreal

The Ottawa River portion of the cruise is from July 5th through to the 9th, consisting of nights at Casino du Lac-Leamy, Montebello, Hudson, and Sainte Anne de Bellevue with a notable highlight through the Carillon Lock.

The flight of eight locks down from the Chateau Laurier were as uneventful as any other locking we do, except for the fact that we were interviewed by a Japanese documentary crew. The C-Shel may be on Japanese TV!  It was also very hot going down, we don't think we have ever been so warm doing any other lock. The heat wave struck big time that day, it reached into the 40's with the humidex. Once out on the Ottawa River however, things were a little cooler with a breeze off the water. With the Parliament buildings at our stern we were in good spirits to make the short trip to the Gatineau River, and into Lac-Leamy to take advantage of the free dockage at the Casino. The Casino Du Lac Leamy is a highly recommended stopover, with power, water hookup, its clean, with easy access to the casino and its restaurants. The casino's Air Conditioning was very much appreciated as well, since the A/C in the salon of the boat gave up blowing cold air in the mid day heat.  


Parliament Hill

Casino du Lac-Leamy Marina

The next morning we set off for Montebello. It was ridiculously hot again that day. We have a certain budget for fuel, so cruising at our hull speed of 7.5 knots was what we had planned to do most of the trip. The wind at our stern made it feel like there wasn't a breeze, we had no choice but to bring the C-Shel out of the water at planning speed of 19 knots. We enjoyed the wind at that speed and kept it up for about 1.5 to 2 hours. The Ottawa River opens up here, and almost begs you to go a little faster anyway. It was completely calm and it seemed we were the only ones headed this way.




We arrived at Montebello mid afternoon, registered, then quickly went to the pool to cool down.  We have never been to Montebello before. It exceeded our expectations. It is a lovely resort, with great marina facilities, beautiful grounds, and wonderful food. There is no way anyone cruising the Ottawa River should pass this place by. We will return every time we are on the Ottawa River.

Interior of Montebello Chalet

The following days cruise included a lockage through Carillon Lock. It is the first lock on the way to Montreal from Ottawa. It is a Parks Canada lock so your passes for Rideau or Trent locking work here. Carillon is the largest dropping lock in Canada, some 65 feet, and with its 200 ton guillotine door it is quite the experience. Locking through though is a breeze though, they have a dock installed inside the lock that goes up and down the lock wall. All boaters have to do is tie to the dock and relax and watch, no handling messy lock lines or fighting to keep you boat off the lock wall.





Continuing on to the village of Hudson, we stocked up on provisions at an IGA that was the nicest little grocery store. Hudson is a great place to stock up, and the village has a few nice places to eat as well. The Irish Pub we found served very good Lamb Shanks.



The last stop before Old Montreal would be the Sainte Anne de Bellevue Lock, which is on the lower western point of Montreal Island. This would be our destination for the next day. We stayed below the lock after going through. The southern pier is the quietest, though if you like the night life, the northern pier is where you will want to stay. The lock at Sainte Anne is lined with bars and restaurants. The Northern side will give someone great access to these, but you will get a lot of foot traffic coming by the boat. We actually were the only boat on the southern pier, probably because the water was so low, there was no access from the dock to the boat except from the bow. The C-Shel has a high bow so we had no problems. A couple of very good friends were in the area and decided to drop by and see us to chat about how the trip was going, as they may be doing this leg of the trip and back in August if the water levels do not get any lower.

Sainte Anne de Bellevue Lower Lock

Speaking of low water levels, it is pretty low on the Ottawa. I can remember kicking up mud in at least two places; pulling away from a fuel dock in Oka and pulling away from the dock in Hudson. The Yacht Club in Hudson would not even put us in the marina in a certain slip that was available because they were afraid we would hit. We stayed on the outside of the break wall of the marina. By examining the dock in Saint Anne it looks to be 2-3 feet lower than normal. It is said that the levels are at Chart Datum, and the charts display depths on the low side for safety.

The next morning it was off to Old Montreal, The distance wasn't too far, but we had 2 commercial locks to do and the wait times could be up to 3 hours. They were also calling for thunderstorms in the afternoon, so we had to set off early. It was once again hot and not a breeze. I got lazy and left my bike leaned against the rail on the bow not tied down. I usually fold it up and put it in its storage bag in the cockpit, but not this one time. As we were entering the canal, there was a train of boaters heading from Lachine marina to go up the locks as well, each one kicking up a mighty big wake, having forgot about my bike we took the wakes at the bow as we normally would, except this time I noticed my bike rolling back and forth, It wasn't long until the bike's front tire rolled off the bow and the bike went under the rail and sunk to the bottom of the St. Lawrence Seaway. Needless to say, the C-Shel is taking donations for a fold-up bike.

After waiting for an hour to go through the first lock and finally getting through, we noticed some very dark clouds to the west that were blowing our way. I thought it best to bring the boat on plane and try to out run it to the next lock so we could tie up and take it at the dock. The storm was at our stern the for the 15 minutes it took to get to the next lock. The pleasure craft dock was full so I asked it I could raft onto someone quickly, and someone agreed. As we were tying the lines, the wind started and it poured out of the heavens.

The storm passed and we made it through the lock, now enroute to the Old Port in Montreal, we rounded the La Ronde amusement park and there was another dark cloud. This time we could not out run it, we had to head right for it. It was slow moving through the 4-5 knot current on the way to the Old Port, where we would normally be going 6.5-7.5 knots we were going 2.5-3.5 knots. At times the rain was so heavy that I could hardly see my bow pulpit and if it wasn't for the compass and the GPS, I wouldn't have a clue where we were heading. However as soon as we broke the current and the rain lifted, we could see the Old Port before us and we knew upon first glance that the trip through the commercial locks in the storms would be well worth it.

 Marina at the Old Port Montreal

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Rideau Lakes to Ottawa Video

The Admiral has been hard at work to complete a video of the Rideau Lakes to Ottawa portion of the trip. This video is directly related to "First Leg - Rideau Lakes to Ottawa" post. At the end of the video you can jump aboard and lock down the Ottawa Locks with us. You can also watch it in 720p HD. Hope you enjoy.

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First Leg - Rideau Lakes to Ottawa


It is Monday July 5th, and we are writing this as we patiently await the first group of boaters locking up the eight Ottawa locks. We are thankfully underneath the shade of the Rideau Street bridge while we wait for the first lock down of the day. We seem to have picked a heat wave to boat throughout the city of Ottawa; our arrival yesterday was in the upper 30s, and today calling for the low 40s with the humidex. That's ok, we will be done before the sun is too high in the sky and docked at Casino De Lac Leamy for the rest of the day and night.

We are a little tired this morning from the uneasiness of having the homeless sleeping next to the boat, and from the construction that seemed to have started at 5am at the Congress Center. I am not sure we would spend the night in downtown Ottawa again. Its not that it was unsafe, we just weren't perfectly relaxed in the atmosphere late in the night. Our recommendation would be to spend the day downtown, but then go back up the canal to Dows Lake at the marina for the night.








As we think back on the last 4 days, big smiles cross our faces. We could not have had a better start to our vacation. Good times spent with good friends on familiar waters.  The stretch of river from the Rideau Lakes to Long Island Lock was our old cruising grounds for at least 7 years. It was great to reconnect and hang out with some of these friends on the water.

We managed to leave home port at Rideau Ferry Harbour the evening of June 30th, traveling 2 hours and staying in the Smith Falls Basin. Watch for tree branches overhanging the dock on the park side of the basin when docking; just saying. We wanted to make as much headway as we could as the next day was Canada day and Merrickville can fill up very quickly on Canada Day.

Heading for Merrickville, between Edmunds and Kilmarnoc Lock stations.
Setting off for Merrickville early Canada Day morning, we caught the first lock down. We had checked our messages and already we were notified of 2 good friends at the Merrickville dock and 2 more on the way.  It would end up being a wonderful Canada Day, with some of the best fireworks I have seen in Merrickville ever, and we have experienced many Canada Day fireworks at Merrickville.

The next day it was on to Burritts Rapids Lock station, a very popular lock where many boaters from our old marina congregate on the weekends. It was Friday so there would be a good chance we would see some more old friends that night. One couple that came to Merrickville to see us had decided to join us and hang out until Sunday morning, so two of us left Merrickville and waited to lock down the 3 locks in the small village. Thinking it would be a slow day heading down toward Ottawa, since most boaters were heading back from Canada Day in downtown Ottawa, we were surprised to see after 10 minutes on the blue line, 8 mid sized power boats waiting to go down the lock with us. It was a double lock down, where a lock full of boats would go in one lock and when entered into the second lock the lock staff would load up the top lock again and follow right behind with another lock full of boats.

Locking down Merrickville Lock

On our approach to Burritts Rapids Lock we could see that the top of the lock was full, which was unfortunate since the top gets a little more breeze than down below, so down below we went. We took the last two available spots on the lower dock, and good thing too, there was still a few boats heading up the long reach coming from Ottawa expecting to get dockage at the lower dock at Burritts. I believe there ended up being 25 boats at Burritts that evening, boats were anchored out just off from the lower dock and boats were tied to trees as well.

The next day the plan was to meet up with some good friends at Long Island who had just this season upgraded there 26 cruiser, identical to the one that we upgraded from, to a really nice 32 footer. We rafted up 3 boats while anchored at the top of Long Island Lock. We spent a beautiful evening catching up and enjoying the scenery.


Our friends who had decided to travel with us until Sunday morning, had now decided that they were going to travel with us on our last leg to downtown Ottawa as far as they could then turn around and go back home. Like us, they had never been down any farther than Black Rapids Lock, and this was a good opportunity to do so. In the morning we started the engines, lifted our anchor, untied our still bed-laden friends who also had their hook down, pushed them off to swing on their own, and started the journey toward downtown.

It is a beautiful trip into Ottawa, lovely houses on the water, passing under road bridges that you don't think twice about when we drive on them in the car, but now take on a certain majestic aura about them as you pass under. Half way to downtown, in Hogs Back lock, our friends informed us that they too were going into downtown with us, then later in the evening, going back up to Dows Lake to keep their boat there for the week, and cruise back up to home port next weekend. This was wonderful news to us as we love spending time with them, and we really appreciated their spontaneity and willingness share this portion of the journey with us.  So the two of us kept on cruising together into downtown. Rounding the final corner into downtown we seen the Chateau Laurier at the end of the canal. Though we see this beautiful building all the time, it was like seeing it again for the first time from a boat. It was a sign of closure for the first leg of this cruise, a sign of something about to finish, and something new to begin.

Later that evening, after an afternoon of shopping and eating, we watched a couple of our best friends leave downtown Ottawa and head back up the canal, under a few bridges then out of sight. Though very sad to see them go and wishing they could stay a little longer, we soon realized that phase two of this trip is starting, and there is a lot more to see, explore, and experience on this already fulfilling trip.


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The Golden Triangle Cruise 2010

Please join us here on Searching for C-Shels from the 1st of July to the 25th, as we cruise what some call, the Golden Triangle. Departing form the Rideau Lakes to Ottawa on the Rideau River, on to Montreal via the Ottawa River, to Kingston cruising up the St Lawrence, and back up the Rideau River to home port.

The plan is to spend Canada Day in the picturesque village of Merrickville, a night downtown in Canada's Capital, a few days in the Old Port of Montreal, the boaters paradise in the 1000 Islands, and all the beautiful places in between.

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The First Journey on the C-Shel

The day we took delivery of the C-Shel, a 1989 Tollycraft 34 Sport Sedan, was a day of mixed emotions. Extreme excitement about acquiring our new vessel, mixed with ample amounts of anxiety. The trip from the delivery point at Pelee Island Ontario on the western side of Lake Erie to Leamington Ontario was a breeze, but the stress was building from the thoughts of docking what felt like a 50 footer. Upgrading from a 26 foot single engine cruiser, to a twin engine 34 foot (40 LOA) flybridge sedan, was a shock to the system to say the least.

The 3 attempts for me to stern in to our assigned dock at Leamington was the most stress I have every felt in my life. My first time in close quarters, and surrounding my dock were a cavalry of half a million dollar yachts. No mishaps, but now at the dock, my heart was beating out of my chest. It literally took me two days to recover from that and to get my nerve up to begin our journey across Lake Erie to the Welland Canal, across Lake Ontario to the St. Lawrence, and up the Rideau River to our home port on the Rideau Lakes.

Docked at Leamington Ontario

A little naive about Lake Erie, we eventually cast off the lines and headed SE around Pelee Point. Not a bad day, 2 footers on the western side of the point, and the weather reports stated 1 meter or less out on the lake. No problem... we thought. Rounding the corner of Pelee Point things started to get a little more uncomfortable. Things kicked up to 4-5 footers, then off in the distance I seen some fairly big rollers coming. At the worst of times I can only estimate that we were hitting 8 footers. The bow would bury, and what felt like a wall of water would crash in on us on the flybridge. We were soaked. This lasted about 15 to 20 minutes, until eventually the big rollers were gone, and we were consistently in 3-5 footers. I quickly learned that this Tolly liked to be on plane at about 17-18 knots in this type of chop . She would crush the waves smoothing out our path ahead and we would see spray thrown out either side 40-50 feet.

I had known how quickly and how violently Lake Erie can kick up, however, I was not prepared that it does this with just a breeze of wind, and with all radio indicators indicating 1 meter or less on the lake. Lake Erie is fairly shallow, and has many shoals, these shoals over time shrink and grow with the movement of the water, and where things are relatively calm out in the middle of the lake, 2-3 miles off shore these shoals will push the waves up and out of the water. Making 6-8 footers out of the 1 meter waves further off shore.

We had planned for 3-4 days to cross Lake Erie from West to East, however the lake did not want to let us go that fast, it was day 8 before we entered the Welland Canal. We were on a time budget, and had 2 weeks to do the full trip. Losing 4-5 days off of my trip plan on Lake Erie cost us some of our relaxation time at ports and anchorages for the remaining portion of the trip.

The remainder of the cruise home was pretty much uneventful, but beautiful. Lake Ontario was very good to us, nothing huge, just 3 foot swells most of the time. I was getting use to my twin engine boat, and felt confident in my close quarter manoeuvring when there wasn't much wind on. We passed through the Murray Canal into the Bay of Quinte, on to Kingston Ontario, then a couple of days spent on our home waters, traveling up the Rideau River to C-Shel's new home.


View Tolly Purchase Cruise Home in a larger map

This happened in Aug of 2008. We have had the C-Shel for what is going on our second full season. She has been a wonderful boat. Still a boat none the less, with a few items needing maintenance and repair, some of which we will blog about here. This boat is making us long to be live-aboards, we have dreams of cruising to Florida, the Bahamas, the British Virgin Islands, of being loopers, and maybe even passagemakers.

This blog will be about those dreams and God willing the execution of those dreams, our adventures and mishaps on the current C-Shel, and a little about our search for the next C-Shel. We hope to capture, with words, photography and video, just a little bit of what it is like to be swinging on a hook in a secluded cove at midnight with the haunting sounds of loons while gazing at the biggest of starry skies, the feeling of freedom on a fresh summer morning to untie the mooring lines and set out for a day of exploration. We hope you enjoy following.

Cyndi and Sheldon

C-Shel

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